Jocara Newsletter
Sep 18, 2004

Well, it's been 6 days since our last newsletter, so sorry for not writing 
this earlier but so much has been happening!

The first big thing was that we went back to Anak Krakatau and found an 
anchorage just off the SE corner, where the water was calm.  We were able 
to land on a volcanic ash beach with our dinghy, where we found a BBC film 
team making a drama documentary about Krakatau exploding in 1883.  We were 
directed to a path that led through a forested part no stranger than one 
might find in many tropical islands, but which then opened out suddenly 
onto a flat hot black plain of volcanic ash and rocks, with a few outcrops 
of tall grasses.  We worked our way up to the first ridge, probably part 
of an earlier crater, then along a crest and up the main peak.  The rocks, 
being black and in the sun, were hot, but we soon realised that they were 
getting hotter than the sun could account for.  Some areas were steaming, 
and the heat was baking our legs and making the soles of our feet hot 
through our footwear.  The sulphurous gasses made it hard to breathe at 
times and irritated our eyes.  We made it to the top, to find a classic 
crater and the sulphurous fumeroles we'd seen from the sea.  An amazing 
place, but we did not have much time to stay as it was getting late.  The 
next morning, we set off again with GPS and our Explorer's Club flag to 
explore the crater and take photos.  The top of the crater is about 320m 
above sea level.  We managed to walk the knife-edge crater rim all the way 
round.  We have lots of pictures and video to send back at our next post 
office stop.  Meanwhile, don't forget to check out our updated webpage to 
see the latest update from Merak!

Before leaving the Krakatau group, we traded 30 litres of diesel with a 
fishing boat for 4 snappers, the largest about 10 kg, two small crabs and 
a lobster.  The crabs and lobster made a great pasta sauce!

Our next stop was at Ujung Kulon park, a world heritage site that has 
Indonesian one-horned Rhinos.  We anchored near a hut that marked the site 
of a 200-year-old port called Cibom, near the 'first light' at the Western 
corner of Java at the entrance to the Sunda Straits.  This was the famous 
lighthouse, 50m high on the cliff, that was destroyed by the tidal wave 
from the explosion of Krakatau.  We were able to take a walk to see the 
original lighthouse remains, climbed up to the top of the new lighthouse 
tower and ambled along fantastic beaches with deep rolling surf waves to 
where turtles come to lay their eggs.  The walk also took us through 
jungle full of insects and birds, including many hornbills.  We saw Rhino 
tracks (we think) and certainly heard some heavy grunting and crashing 
through the undergrowth along one part of the track where we walked.  
Altogether, a fantastic walk, full of natural beauty, history and 
wildlife.

Yesterday we finally set off on the big leg to Cocos Keeling, 588 n.m. 
away across the open Indian Ocean.  As we rounded the corner, the big 
southern ocean swells appeared, 3m high, with 20 knots of wind from the 
SE.  In the last 25 hours we have traveled over 220 miles, with 365 to go 
to Cocos.  We are all feeling a bit seasick, and not able to do very much 
other than hang on as we ride the big waves through the boats' pitching, 
rolling, yawing, heaving, surging and swaying motions.  Casper is probably 
doing better than the rest of us, taking some pictures now.  Alex is very 
seasick and unable to do anything.  John and Caroline and doing their 
best, but that's not saying very much as they are both close to being 
sick.  We are now at 8 deg. 50.15'S 102 deg. 06.50'E, heading SW at about 
8.7 knots.  Next report from Cocos!