Jocara Newsletter Dec 7, 2004 This newsletter comes from the northern tip of Madagascar. The cape appeared on the bow as the sun came up on 5 December, Alex's birthday. We made our way around to the west and southwards to a secluded bay to anchor and rest after the crossing from Rodrigues via Cargados Carajos, and chanced upon a pod of Spinner Dolphins who dutifully did their thing, hurling themselves out of the water and landing on their backs for fun. We also caught a beautiful blue fish in 30 m of water on the way in, but were too concerned about the risk of Ciguatera to brave eating it, so we let it go. Inside the bay we found yet another group of dolphins, this time Bottlenose. What a morning! The rest of the day was spent repairing several bits of broken gear after the slamming damages of light winds and tossing swells on the way over. The next day we made our way south along the coast, enjoying the strange new world of Madagascar - the huge sky full of layers of strange clouds and blues of the most delicate shades, barren rocks of black lava, brown and red iron-rich sandstones and African trees, strange and mesmerising to our European eyes. The land looks ancient, burnt, deserted. We saw only one small fishing boat hauled up on the shore, a couple of dilapidated 'tents' for shelter up the beach. The night turned blustery, with up to 24 knots of wind, and very rolly, so Caroline and John got little sleep. Today (John's birthday) we moved anchorages and explored some beaches, clambering over rocks and exploring the shallows. There are a huge number of very large and beautiful shells here, much larger in size than we've seen anywhere else in the world. There's also remarkably little plastic rubbish on the shoreline. This evening Alex caught a very respectable red snapper on the casting rod, while Casper brought in a small lobster, hand-speared. We anchor tonight in the partial and still-rolly lee of a tiny island at 12 deg. 28.0'S, 48 deg. 42.3'E, hoping for a better night's rest! Tomorrow we plan to set off for Geyser reef, 130 n.m. to the west, on the way to Mayotte. Check out our website at http://www.jocara.net and see all the new chatty log material, just uploaded. P.S. Don't forget to check out our website at http://www.jocara.net for updates, pics and short movies, also archived newsletters. Anyone can join the list or unsubscribe by sending an email to mandar@arl.nus.edu.sg with the subject line 'subscribe jocara newsletter' or 'unsubscribe Jocara newsletter' as appropriate.